The garment and textiles industry grapples with a range of critical challenges concerning Decent Work due to the complexity of global supply chains and the impact and implications of prevailing business models in the fashion industry. These factors have direct and indirect bearings on a range of socio-economic indicators, including poverty and livelihoods, income inequality, and the rights and working conditions of workers who manufacture our clothes. Commitment and collaboration from stakeholders across the supply chain is required to address persistent Decent Work challenges in the sector, which include:
Low Wages: Many workers in Asia’s garment and textiles industry earn low wages that often fall short of meeting basic living standards. This is often exacerbated by piece-rate payment systems that encourage long working hours to make a living wage. Some employers also engage in wage theft practices, such as not paying workers for overtime or work performed.
Unsafe Working Conditions: Poor safety standards in garment factories can lead to accidents, injuries, and even fatalities. Factors such as inadequate ventilation, lack of fire exits, overcrowded workplaces and exposure to hazardous chemicals in the production process pose health risks to workers.
Additionally, many workers in the industry face long and exhausting working hours, including overtime and weekend work. This leads to fatigue (and fatigue-induced accidents), health problems, and a lack of work-life balance.
Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining: In many Asian countries, garment and textile workers face significant challenges when trying to exercise freedom of association, the right to organize, and collective bargaining. Employers may actively discourage or even prohibit unionization efforts, leading to an environment of fear and intimidation. In some cases, even if unions exist, they face obstacles to real or effective collective bargaining. Employers may resist or manipulate negotiations, and legal frameworks may not adequately protect workers' rights in the process. This is underpinned by an absence of institutionalized social dialogue at the enterprise level, which makes all of these efforts more difficult and/or less effective.
Gender Inequality: The garment and textiles industry employs a significant number of women (in Asia they can make up as much as 80% of the factory workforce), but gender based discrimination, harassment and violence, together with gender pay gaps remain all too prevalent. Women are disproportionately represented in low skilled, low paid and less secure jobs, and often face barriers when it comes to career advancement. Women frequently lack access to managerial or decision-making roles, including in worker organizations, which can limit their ability to advocate for their rights effectively. Read more about gender equality in the Asia’s garment and textile industry here.
Temporary and informal employment: Garment supply chains often involve numerous subcontractors and suppliers which rely on short term contracts and/or informal, home-based workers. These jobs tend to be more insecure (than regular factory jobs) and may lack formal contracts and access to social protection and other standard benefits. Informality makes it challenging for brands and retailers to monitor and ensure labour standards are upheld throughout the entire chain. The lower subcontracted-tiers tends to be where most instances of child and forced labour occur.