Decent Work/Social & Labour Standards

What is Decent Work and why is it important to the garment industry?

Decent Work sums up the aspirations of people in their working lives.

It involves opportunities for work that delivers a fair income, security in the workplace and social protection for all; It also ensures freedom for people to express their concerns, and facilitates equality of opportunity and treatment for all women and men. Decent Work is underpinned by a framework of International Labour Standards, which are enshrined in everything from national labour laws to business human rights frameworks and social audit standards.

Keen to find out more about Decent Work and Social & Labour Standards? This section provides latest news, data and analysis, events and training on the subject, as well as opportunities to connect with leading organizations putting Decent Work at the core of their operations.

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What are some of the key challenges surrounding Decent Work in the garment and textiles industry?

The garment and textiles industry grapples with a range of critical challenges concerning Decent Work due to the complexity of global supply chains and the impact and implications of prevailing business models in the fashion industry. These factors have direct and indirect bearings on a range of socio-economic indicators, including poverty and livelihoods, income inequality, and the rights and working conditions of workers who manufacture our clothes. Commitment and collaboration from stakeholders across the supply chain is required to address persistent Decent Work challenges in the sector, which include:

Low Wages: Many workers in Asia’s garment and textiles industry earn low wages that often fall short of meeting basic living standards. This is often exacerbated by piece-rate payment systems that encourage long working hours to make a living wage. Some employers also engage in wage theft practices, such as not paying workers for overtime or work performed.

Unsafe Working Conditions: Poor safety standards in garment factories can lead to accidents, injuries, and even fatalities. Factors such as inadequate ventilation, lack of fire exits, overcrowded workplaces and exposure to hazardous chemicals in the production process pose health risks to workers. Additionally, many workers in the industry face long and exhausting working hours, including overtime and weekend work. This leads to fatigue (and fatigue-induced accidents), health problems, and a lack of work-life balance. 

Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining: In many Asian countries, garment and textile workers face significant challenges when trying to exercise freedom of association, the right to organize, and collective bargaining. Employers may actively discourage or even prohibit unionization efforts, leading to an environment of fear and intimidation. In some cases, even if unions exist, they face obstacles to real or effective collective bargaining. Employers may resist or manipulate negotiations, and legal frameworks may not adequately protect workers' rights in the process. This is underpinned by an absence of institutionalized social dialogue at the enterprise level, which makes all of these efforts more difficult and/or less effective.

Gender Inequality: The garment and textiles industry employs a significant number of women (in Asia they can make up as much as 80% of the factory workforce), but gender based discrimination, harassment and violence, together with gender pay gaps remain all too prevalent. Women are disproportionately represented in low skilled, low paid and less secure jobs, and often face barriers when it comes to career advancement. Women frequently lack access to managerial or decision-making roles, including in worker organizations, which can limit their ability to advocate for their rights effectively. Read more about gender equality in the Asia’s garment and textile industry here.

Temporary and informal employment: Garment supply chains often involve numerous subcontractors and suppliers which rely on short term contracts and/or informal, home-based workers. These jobs tend to be more insecure (than regular factory jobs) and may lack formal contracts and access to social protection and other standard benefits. Informality makes it challenging for brands and retailers to monitor and ensure labour standards are upheld throughout the entire chain. The lower subcontracted-tiers tends to be where most instances of child and forced labour occur.  

What steps can be taken to improve Social & Labour Standards across the supply chain?

Improving Social & Labour Standards across garment supply chains requires a concerted effort from all stakeholders including governments, brands, enterprises (i.e. manufacturers and suppliers), and workers. A smart mix of policies and responses may include interventions in the following areas:

Strengthening public governance: This refers to the responsibilities of the government to uphold national labour laws and adhere to international labour standards. These responsibilities include drafting -and revising- labour laws, policies and regulations, collecting and managing labour related data, overseeing labour inspection and legal enforcement (including prosecution and sanctions regimes), administering public employment services, managing labour migration, and addressing labour disputes.

Improving Social Dialogue and Industrial Relations: Communication and collaboration amongst employers, workers and governments helps ensure fair labour practices, improved working conditions and protection of workers’ rights, alongside practical business benefits. Freedom of association refers to the rights of workers to create and join organizations that represent them (such as trade unions) without employer interference. Collective bargaining is the process of negotiation between trade unions and employers related to working conditions, terms of employment and other work-related issues, such as union facilities, dispute resolution procedures, and mechanisms for cooperation, communication and consultation.

Transparency & Supply Chain Mapping: In the pursuit of better social and labour standards, it is essential to establish transparency within the supply chain. This involves meticulously mapping the entire chain, from suppliers to subcontractors. Implementing traceability systems is equally vital, as they allow for the tracking of material origins and product flow throughout the supply chain. With clear visibility of the supply chain, companies can ensure accountability and pinpoint areas for vigilance and improvement.

Building enterprise capacity: Many garment manufacturers, particularly small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) and those in lower tiers of the supply chain, face extreme pressure to increase productivity alongside social and environmental compliance, despite limited human and financial resources. Capacity building activities, tailored to the needs of managers, supervisors and workers can encourage continuous improvement.

Consumer Awareness and Demand: Education and awareness are crucial components of improving social and labour standards. By educating consumers about the importance of ethical and sustainable consumption, they can drive demand for the industry to adhere to these standards, for example by developing greener and more sustainable products and production methods, and integrating responsible sourcing practices into their business models. This not only aligns with consumer expectations but also incentivizes further improvements throughout the supply chain.

What initiatives, projects or organizations are promoting Decent Work in the Asia's garment and textiles industry?

Better Work: A partnership between the International Labour Organization (ILO) and the International Finance Corporation (IFC), Better Work unites governments, global brands, factory owners, unions and workers to improve working conditions in the global apparel and footwear industry and make the sector more competitive. The programme operates in several Asian countries, including Cambodia, Vietnam, and Bangladesh where they focus on improving labour standards through factory assessments, advisory services, and training.

Fair Wear Foundation (FWF): FWF is an independent, multi-stakeholder initiative that works to improve labour conditions in the garment and textile supply chain. It collaborates with brands, factories, trade unions, and NGOs, with a strong presence in Asian manufacturing hubs. FWF conducts audits, offers training, and supports the development of grievance mechanisms based on a ‘shared responsibility' approach.

Asia Floor Wage Alliance: This alliance of trade unions and labour rights organizations campaigns for fair wages for garment workers in Asia.

Clean Clothes Campaign: The global network works to improve labour conditions in the global garment industry, with a significant focus on Asia. They conduct research, advocate for policy changes, and collaborate with local organizations and unions to support workers' rights. 

RISE (Reimagining Industry to Support Equality): is a initiative formed by BSR’s HERproject, Gap Inc., P.A.C.E, CARE, and Better Work, aiming to accelerate gender equality for women workers in the garment, footwear, and home supply chains.

What publications or reports are promoting Decent Work in the Asia's garment and textiles industry?

Unpicked: Fashion & Freedom of Association (Business & Human Rights Resource Centre, 2022): This research draws on interviews and surveys with trade union leaders and details the ways in which freedom of association and collective bargaining remain under attack in Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia and Sri Lanka.

Fashion’s Next Trend: Accelerating Supply Chain Transparency in the Apparel and Footwear Industry (Human Rights Watch, 2019): This report takes stock of supply chain transparency as of late 2019, provides an overview of positive developments in the industry, and makes recommendations to improve apparel companies’ due diligence.

The future of work in textiles, clothing, leather and footwear (ILO, 2019): This working paper was prepared for ILO constituents and other key actors in industry to facilitate discussions in the centennial year of the ILO and beyond.

Improving road safety for garment workers in Vietnam

Every year, more than 24,970 people die in traffic accidents in Vietnam. Find out why this also affects the textile sector and how to improve road safety for garment factory workers.

Learnings and Tools

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Latest News on Decent Work/Social & Labour Standards

Approval for new Bt cotton variety expected soon, says Textiles Minister Giriraj Singh

A new variety of technologically advanced Bt cotton likely to be allowed soon for commercial cultivation to help Indian textile industry in a bigger way, Textiles Minister Giriraj Singh has indicated. He also said that in order to overcome labour problem in this sector, efforts are on to utilise members of Self-Help Group (SHG) in a big way.

Indonesia to increase import taxes to protect local textile industry

The Indonesian government on Tuesday said that it will issue two protection policies, namely Safeguard Measures Import Duty (BMTP) and Anti-Dumping Import Duty (BMAD), for textiles in a bid to protect the local industry from surging imported textiles.

Forging a robust safety and health movement in South East Asia

Developing a strategic and coordinated action plan aimed at leveraging the International Labour Organization’s (ILO) Occupational Safety and Health (OSH) framework to improve health and safety conditions at workplaces and enhance union power in South East Asia was a pivotal item on the agenda at an OSH online workshop held on 19 June with 60 trade union representatives from Cambodia, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, Mongolia, Thailand and the Philippines.

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Decent Work/Social & Labour Standards

What is Decent Work and why is it important to the garment industry?

Improving road safety for garment workers in Vietnam

Learnings and Tools

Latest News on Decent Work/Social & Labour Standards

Resources on Decent Work/Social & Labour Standards

RISE Digital Cambodia - How to Use a Tablet

Skills Matter!

The gender pay gap in Sri Lanka: A statistical review with policy implications

Report – Skill Gap Study in Apparel Made-ups and Home Furnishing Sector

Click through our Member Profiles and find experts in the field of Decent Work/Social & Labour Standards

Multimedia Resources on Decent Work/Social & Labour Standards

Find out Who's Who in the industry

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