Based on extensive interviews, focus group discussions, and a survey among trade unions and labour advocates, the report provides an in-depth analysis of worker representation across six major garment-producing countries: Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. The findings reveal a concerning trend where alternative representation structures, such as workplace committees, are being utilized to superficially comply with the freedom of association, rather than genuinely supporting trade unions and their collective bargaining rights.

Key Findings

1. Weak Representative Structures: The report highlights the prevalence of ‘worker committees’ and yellow unions, which are often co-opted by management and fail to genuinely represent workers’ interests. These structures are frequently set up in response to thwart efforts by workers to organize independently.

2. Punishment of Independent Unions: Employers promote alternative structures and punish independent trade unions through pervasive union-busting tactics. This support for alternative structures by both suppliers and brands constitutes a form of union-busting.

3. Effectiveness of Independent Unions: Independent trade unions have proven to achieve significant gains for workers, including better education, awareness, and tangible improvements in benefits and conditions. However, the promotion of alternative structures drains the resources and capacity of independent unions.

4. Vicious Cycle: The dominance of weak representative structures creates a cycle that undermines trade union effectiveness, diverting time and resources away from essential activities like organizing and representing workers’ needs.

5. Brands’ Reliance on Alternative Structures: Brands often rely on alternative structures that allow for minimal worker engagement, rather than actively supporting independent union structures. While there are some positive developments, such as Global Framework Agreements and the Bangladesh Accord, overall, brands fail to support independent trade unions adequately.

Recommendations for International Fashion Brands

The report emphasizes the vital role brands must play in transforming supply chains to support workers’ freedom of association. Key recommendations include:

• Strengthen Supply Chain Transformation: Actively promote and engage with trade unions to support supply chain transformation and workers’ rights.
• Develop and Implement Robust Policies: Move beyond superficial engagement and support the development of independent trade unions and collective bargaining.
• Negotiate Binding Agreements: Ensure the principles of Global Framework Agreements are embedded throughout the business model.
• Support Freedom of Association: Demand suppliers respect freedom of association and support dialogue and due diligence processes.
• Promote Meaningful Engagement: Undertake stakeholder mapping and ensure the right to freedom of association is prioritized in due diligence processes.
• Support Just Transition: Engage in dialogue to design and implement human rights and environmental due diligence for a net-zero value chain.

Call to Action

This report is a call to action for international fashion brands to proactively support independent trade unions and end the promotion of weak, alternative models of worker representation. Ensuring constructive worker engagement and enhanced negotiation norms is crucial for guaranteeing workers’ rights and a just transition to sustainable supply chains.

Read the full report here.