A conversation with Gabrielle Shiner-Hill on her journey in the textile and fashion industry, why she believes digital product development can pave the way to a more sustainable supply chain, and what obstacles factories, manufacturers and brands still need to overcome.

Could you tell us about your journey in the textile and fashion industry, from your early experiences in weaving to your current work in digital fabric innovation? How has this journey influenced your perspective on creating sustainable supply chains?
I studied textile design at ual in London and was introduced to Pointcarré, a French CAD system. I began my career by training technicians in mills to use this software, allowing me to understand their needs and challenges. While CAD systems are common now, they were just starting to emerge 20 years ago. Later, as a product developer at Esquel, and Dewhirst. I worked closely with textile mills and noticed a significant amount of textile waste, often ending up in unused samples. After calculating, I found that one brand had about 250,000 yards of wasted fabric. Shocked by this, I transitioned to academia, became a teacher, and joined a fashion buying course to educate on responsible buying, sustainable practices, and supply chain sustainability decisions.


Why do you believe in digital product creation (DPC) and its potential for more creativity, flexibility and sustainability? Can you give specific examples of how DPC has changed the way fabrics are conceived and integrated into designs?
We should adopt a product-specific approach because certain products require very different skilled approaches. Consider a core men's shirt, for instance. It uses the same fabric base with occasional variations in weave, color, or finishing across seasons. When producing such consistent core products, why create physical samples when you can view them digitally? Digital color approvals and 3D garment visualization are possible, making a virtual showroom the logical choice. The industry mindset has shifted over the past 25 years towards excessive physical sampling, resulting in significant waste. However, a change in thinking is essential. DPC offers more creativity, flexibility, and sustainability. The challenge lies in convincing upper management to embrace digital visualization, even though designers and product developers know its benefits.


Despite the proven benefits of digital product creation, the fashion industry seems hesitant to fully adopt it. Can you explain the obstacles that are preventing the widespread adoption of digital workflows, especially when it comes to fabric digitization?
The main hurdles include uncertain digital fabric ROI and the need for a skilled workforce in digital materials. While factories possess valuable hands-on skills, there can often be a perceived barrier to transferring these to digital fabric, even though we know they can. This shift into digital manufacturing alongside physical production remains challenging for many mills. The question of who within the mill understands this process and is ready to embrace it remains unanswered.

To address this, we collaborate with the University of Butex and offer lectures to engineering students, exposing them to this future-ready workflow. Manufacturers have expressed direct interest in training individuals. Additionally, brand preferences play a pivotal role; if brands are uncertain about their digital workflows, mills hesitate to invest in software or hardware that may not align with the brands' final choices.


When introducing digital workflows to mills and factories, especially in terms of fabric digitization, what challenges did you face, and how did you address them?
The main point is aligning with the brand's digital quality standards, which are additional benchmarks garment manufacturers and mills must adhere to, similar to fabric testing standards. However, comprehension of these standards varies depending on the digital proficiency of the manufacturer or mill, affecting how they align their fabric testing processes. Mills have the necessary test methods, machinery, and lab setups. When it comes to fabric testing for digital materials in 3D software, there are specific CAD requirements that may seem unconventional to traditional fabric technologists in mills. For instance, tests involving stretch recovery, even for rigid fabrics, are essential for the digital software to simulate proper bending and movement in 3D. While this may seem counterintuitive, it's crucial to understand these test methods and their significance. The mills have the expertise, and the primary challenges revolve around establishing standardized standards.

Why do you think education and training are crucial for equipping the supply chain with the tools to digitize?
Currently, there's a shortage of people, whether recent graduates or industry professionals, skilled in translating physical textiles to digital textiles. However, it's essential to note that software and hardware in this field are evolving rapidly. While some may feel they're falling behind, there's still ample opportunity for everyone to join this transformative journey and witness significant improvements.

Collaboration with universities is crucial. Engaging students and encouraging academic research on fabric testing and digital materials can lead to innovation. Workshops within the supply chain are also vital. Digitalization and sustainability go hand in hand, and education is pivotal. Just as we focus on sustainability education, there's a need for knowledge sharing and exchange regarding digitalization. Creating safe spaces for experimentation and learning, such as events and workshops, will boost confidence among mills and manufacturers in adopting these technologies. So, it's about partnering with universities, showcasing at trade events, and conducting workshops to help them understand the benefits and kickstart implementation. Another point that should be added: Brands need to work with their supply chain partners.

A major challenge for DPC is to replicate the sense of touch in digital textiles. How do you think the industry can overcome this challenge and build confidence in the digital representation of textiles?
Our research, in collaboration with the British Council and ual:, focuses on building trust in digital representations of physical fabrics. We believe that trust is crucial when working with digital twins of physical materials. Beyond creating digital materials, we emphasize the importance of providing various assets that showcase both the digital and physical aspects of the material. This includes visual images, data, and videos of the physical material, all of which help establish trust in the digital version, especially in terms of fit and how the fabric behaves. While there are software tools for fit testing in the digital realm, it's essential to iterate and test physical samples as well to ensure the fabric responds correctly when used in garment production.

In an article for The Interline, you highlighted the expertise of mills in fabric manufacturing and suggested that they could lead the digitization process. Could you explain this briefly?
Regarding mills leading the digitization process, it's about leveraging the expertise of fabric manufacturers who already possess extensive data on their materials. They can translate this data into various software systems to create digital fabrics. However, there's hesitation in the supply chain dynamics, with garment manufacturers often holding more power. This hesitancy stems from concerns about whether the digital fabric will behave the same way as the physical one. Simplifying the process by implementing systems where mills can scan fabrics, learn the necessary digital skills, and provide digital assets could help overcome these challenges.

Not every mill can afford the financial investment required for digital transformation…
Yes, that’s true! This investment includes hardware, software  and associated costs, which can exceed $50,000, along with hiring personnel for these tasks. While we believe mills should digitize, we understand the financial burden this poses, as mills are already asked to invest in various systems and maintenance. A fairer approach would involve sharing the cost among mills, brands, and manufacturers. Brands could offer financial support to facilitate digitalization, possibly by establishing digitalization labs in their buying offices or providing training through universities. This support doesn't have to be solely financial; it can encompass training and resources, making the transition more appealing and practical. The goal is to ensure that digital investments are not idle hardware and software but integrated tools that enhance operations.

Standardization is a crucial aspect of any industry transformation. How can the fashion industry work towards establishing standardized digital quality standards for fabrics and garments? What role should various stakeholders play in this process?
Standardization is crucial in our industry, but we often struggle with self-governance and establishing our own standards. We already have well-defined fabric testing methods through ISO, BS, and ASM, and it makes sense to extend these to include methods for digital fabrics. The question is, who will lead in setting these standards? Groups like the 3D Retail Coalition (3D.RC) in America, with participation from numerous brands, have been discussing 3D standardization and testing. However, progress has been somewhat slow. If creating an industry-wide standard is too ambitious initially, we should at least aim for a clear set of digital standards.

To achieve this, we don't necessarily need more governing bodies, but rather open discussions and collaboration among brands, technology companies, and academia. Many research papers are emerging on physical testing and digital software, which could help guide the industry towards developing these standards collectively. It's important for a group of stakeholders to come together to establish these standards effectively.

What is the potential of digital product development, especially in the context of the Fourth Industrial Revolution? What risks, but also opportunities, do you see in the growing area of DPC and its impact on the industry’s future?
One risk is the potential loss of tangible textile knowledge and skills, which are vital. In the UK, there's a noticeable decline in the importance placed on traditional textile craftsmanship and understanding. On the other hand, there are exciting opportunities in digital literacy and transformation, with digitally native students entering the industry.

In Bangladesh, the textile and apparel sector is currently strong, offering numerous job opportunities and areas for knowledge development in weaving, colors, and textiles. However, there's concern about whether this appeal will persist in 10 to 15 years when a new generation of students, more focused on digital technologies, enters the workforce. To address this, there's a need to revitalize interest in the industry by integrating digital technologies, elevating skill levels, and potentially reskilling in specific digital areas.

What about the issue of digital equality in the gender gap and digital transformation? Can you share how the industry can help women develop the skills needed for digital transformation and ensure a more diverse and innovative future?
We've been primarily focusing on design and fabric digitalization. However, we've noticed a gender gap. While there's a more balanced gender split in office and digital roles for university students, the sewing lines are predominantly staffed by women. This raises concerns about the impact of digital technologies on sewing roles, like seamstresses and sample makers. To address this, we aim to engage more with factory workers, not just technicians. The ICT  Ministry of Bangladesh has highlighted potential job losses and gains due to digital transformation, with a focus on gender disparities. As a single company, our capacity to address this larger issue is limited. However, it's worth noting that our partnership with the British Council mandates us to consider and report on demographic and gender diversity when engaging in educational initiatives, underscoring its significance.

Given your extensive experience with textile design software and CAD tools, how do you see technology shaping the future of textile and fashion design? What emerging trends or advancements excite you the most?
I'm excited about viewing materials in augmented reality (AR) because the current technology falls short in terms of fidelity and resolution. There's promising work on avatars and digital humans that could improve material visualization.  Regarding AI's impact on fabric digitization, companies like Frontier and Vmod are creating AI-generated materials. While there's scepticism about how AI understands the physics of materials, the potential lies in utilizing data for support. A handheld spectrometer or scanner could revolutionize the design and development process by capturing detailed information and easily transferring it to computers. While these concepts exist, they're not yet widely used in the supply chain, but I hope to see them integrated in the future.