Climate crisis in the fashion industry: Can COP29 refuel action?

By Juliette Tafreschi, November 20th, 2024

The fashion industry’s climate commitments suffer from weak enforcement and a lack of genuine ambition to cut emissions. Could COP29 reignite momentum?

The annual UN Climate Change Conference (COP29), which began on November 11 in Baku, Azerbaijan, comes at a critical time for the global garment and textile industry. Responsible for an estimated 897 million tons of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e) to the global carbon budget in 2021—approximately 1.8 percent of global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions—the sector has repeatedly fallen short of its climate commitments. While a few companies have made strides in reducing emissions, the industry’s carbon footprint is projected to increase by over 50 percent by 2030 due to rising production and sales, according to McKinsey. This alarming trajectory underscores the need for urgent action.

2024 has been a year of climate extremes, with record-breaking heatwaves, severe droughts, and devastating floods disrupting communities and industries worldwide. For the textile sector, the impacts have been particularly harsh. Workers in manufacturing hubs across Asia have faced increased health risks, with reports of heat-related illnesses and dehydration rising sharply. Extreme weather has disrupted factory operations, stalled production processes, and driven up the cost of raw materials like cotton. These cascading effects threaten the livelihoods of workers and expose the fragility of current supply chains. This context highlights the urgency for a just transition to sustainable practices—one that not only reduces emissions but also protects vulnerable workers and supply chain communities.

Yet, despite the increasing urgency, the fashion industry’s climate commitments are slipping further down the agenda. As noted in a recent Business of Fashion article, economic pressures, unrealistic sustainability targets, and inadequate financial resources have led many brands to abandon or delay their goals. Geopolitical uncertainties, such as the potential rollback of climate policies in key markets, and the rise of ultra-fast fashion have compounded the issue. With sustainability deprioritized by corporate leaders, the sector is ill-prepared to address the climate risks that threaten its operations and long-term viability.

This troubling lack of progress underscores the importance of COP29 in reigniting the focus on climate action within the industry. The conference, widely referred to as “the finance COP,” presents an opportunity to establish the financial tools and regulatory frameworks needed to drive decarbonization in the textile sector. Organizations like Fashion Revolution have already outlined critical steps, including mandating brands to allocate at least 2 percent of their revenue toward renewable energy and worker support in supply chains. Clear, binding regulations are also essential. These should enforce transparency, hold companies accountable for emissions across their supply chains, and incentivize investments in lower-impact materials and cleaner production processes.

COP29 must become a turning point for the fashion industry. It needs to prioritize policies that accelerate decarbonization, ensure fair transitions, and place accountability at the center of the supply chain. Without decisive action now, the sector will continue on its current path toward exacerbating the climate crisis, with devastating consequences for both people and the planet. Time is ticking.

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