"Individuals need to take collective action to enact systemic change"
How effective do you think the 90-day challenge of #NoNewClothes is addressing overconsumption in the fashion industry?
Quite effective - challenge takers can make a big impact over these 90 days. The purpose of this challenge is to stop and reflect on the values we want to wear, and the role we can play in changing the fashion industry going forward.
By taking on the challenge to buy no new clothes - whether that’s buying nothing at all or only secondhand - for 90 days, you will reduce your carbon footprint, limit the waste you send to landfill, and keep your hard-earned money out of the pockets of companies that hurt people and the planet.
What impact do you believe the #NoNewClothes challenge has on the carbon footprint of fashion consumption? How significant is this reduction compared to other environmental factors?
Each person taking part in the #NoNewClothes challenge saves approximately:
- 9,705 liters of blue water
- 207 kg of CO2 emissions
- 1 kg of waste
- And $471 USD!
Last year our 1316 participants preserved over 12m liters of blue water, prevented close to 27k kilograms of CO2 emissions and 12k kilograms of waste. And saved close to $620k - now that’s collective action in action!
While the #NoNewClothes challenge encourages participants to limit waste and refrain from purchasing from companies with poor labor practices. How does it address the larger systemic issues within the fashion industry?
#NoNewClothes brings awareness to many of the fashion industry’s issues like poverty wages, unclear supply chains, waste and pollution, overproduction, exploitation, and climate change, making them more mainstream.
We've found that once a participant has taken the challenge and reassessed their relationship with consumerism, they become more conscious in their approach to garments, as well as feel more confident in taking active steps that can lead to real political change such as advocating for legal reform within the fashion industry.
What specific actions or measures do you think need to be taken to ensure fair wages and safe working conditions for textile workers, beyond simply reducing consumption of fast fashion?
Here’s a roadmap we created to address the necessary steps for long-term change in the industry, aiming at systemic reform to advance labor rights via the following seven actions: #PayUp, Keeping workers Safe, Going Transparent, Giving Workers Center Stage, Signing Enforceable Contracts, Ending Starvation Wages, Helping Pass Laws.
How can the #NoNewClothes challenge contribute to improving the livelihoods of textile workers who rely on the production and sale of new garments?
The fashion industry creates jobs, there is no doubt. But these jobs should be dignified. They should be decent. And while awareness of these issues garment workers face is growing and significant wins have been made over the last two years, the day-to-day experience for most isn’t improving.
#NoNewClothes amplifies our belief at Remake: that investing in garment workers is an invaluable investment in both people and our planet. Higher wages for workers fuels a positive chain reaction leading to diminished output, elevated products, and a greener footprint.
Are there alternative approaches or initiatives that could be more effective in creating sustainable change and fair conditions for textile workers within the fashion industry?
Here are a few other actions we’d suggest activists consider:
- Keep the conversation going - Don’t let the topic die down. Continue to do research from reputable sources, stay informed on the subject, and discuss it frequently with others. You don’t need to be an expert on every social issue, but you should know enough information to develop your own opinion and take action as you see fit. Don’t rely on others to do the work for you. You can stay in the know by following us on Instagram @remakeourworld or by signing up for our newsletter here.
- Realign your values - This is more than one-time action; it’s a change in habits. Consider this as a time to reflect on your personal values and the collective voice you are a part of. Some questions to ask yourself: Is what I’m saying online aligning with what I’m doing in real life? Am I actually supporting the sustainable fashion movement or just liking a photo? What was the last sustainable business I supported? Am I supporting brands that do good for the people who make their products and the planet? Find the ways in which you are called on to take action like signing the Accord petition. If you are finding it difficult, you’re doing it right.
- Vote by ballot and wallet - Voting inevitably supports agency. Electing appropriate officials in government is a vital component to systemic change on both the national and local levels. Political elections are held routinely, but you can take action daily by voting with your wallet. Your dollar has power - purchasing power. Use it to align with your values and the collective mission of the sustainable fashion movement by shopping local and ethical businesses. Avoid supporting businesses that are greenwashing for profit.
- Make routine donations - Continue to support organizations like Remake that advocate for human rights and environmental issues on a regular basis. Donations can take on many forms. If you aren’t able to provide financial assistance, allocate time to volunteer, research, sign reputable petitions, or offer a service or platform to promote sustainable fashion. Some of the organizations and emergency funds we suggest donating to:
- AWAJ Foundation's GoFundMe, helping garment workers in Bangladesh.
- Garment Worker Center Emergency Relief Fund, helping garment workers in Los Angeles.
- Support Sri Lankan Garment Workers GoFundMe, helping garment workers in Sri Lanka.
- Speak out against injustices in daily life - In order to sustain change it’s imperative that we change our thought patterns and behaviors. If you see something, say something. If you notice a brand is not being transparent? Call it out. Hear a brand that is not treating its workers fairly? Call it out. Or paying livable wages? Call it out. A key principle of sustainability is endurance for present and future generations. The same principles must be applied to social justice. The movement has created a lot of opportunity for systemic change which we must act upon. As other content begins to take over feeds in place of #NoNewClothes, it is our social responsibility to pay attention to and continue to dialogue around social justice and fair wages, regardless of what hashtags are trending.
How can the fashion industry as well as the consumers as a whole shift its focus from fast fashion and excessive consumption to a more sustainable and responsible model without negatively impacting the livelihoods of textile workers?
Rather than asking “Does buying less hurt garment workers?” the question should be: “How do we hold brands accountable and ensure workers are paid a living wage?”
The bigger concern across the fast fashion industry is not the number of jobs, but the low quality of the jobs. The focus should be on better wages and worker empowerment across fashion supply chains.
Fast fashion exploits and engulfs generations of women into a cycle of poverty. Garment jobs are neither good nor safe. So the argument that at least fast fashion creates jobs is not good enough. Deaths and injuries are commonplace in the industry - from the infamous Rana Plaza factory collapse to the lesser known but constant truck accidents which injure, kill, and hurt garment makers on their way to work.
Workers should not be hungry and exploited…this outdated system should not kill women workers. It should not kill their jobs.
Do you believe that individual actions like participating in the #NoNewClothes challenge can have a significant impact on the overall fashion industry, or do larger systemic changes need to occur?
One of the biggest contributing factors of the fashion industry’s main issues is the ever-shortening life cycle of clothing. With trend cycles in constant motion, the inventory turnover is incredibly high for most fashion brands. On average, people upped their apparel purchases by 60% from 2000 to 2014, and considering that 85% of those textiles end up in landfills every year, it’s highly likely consumption will continue going through the roof, with brands producing in excess to support it. Simply put: brands are producing too much product.
There’s no doubt that we are in dire need of system change through policies, but individual action can play a vital role in getting that. Individuals need to take collective action to enact systemic change. And beyond that, how can you change the industry if you can’t change yourself?”
What role do you see brands and retailers playing in driving the shift towards fair wages and safe working conditions for textile workers? How can they be held accountable for their practices?
The fact is, brands respond to the demands of the consumer, and they will prioritize what the consumer wants. So putting pressure on brands can change their behavior. Their every decision revolves around you (the consumer) and your decisions on where you will spend your dollars.
If enough consumers show a great demand for ethical and sustainable products and transparency, it forces companies to take action. Companies are motivated by good business decisions, and as consumers, WE are the source of their business. If we shift our shopping habits, we are sending a message that we have different demands.
Our voice and where we spend our money matters. Buying from companies that are transparent and accountable, who share our values, and can provide the receipts - companies like Veja that publicly share the details of how much their garment workers earn, how many hours they work, and under what conditions.
Patagonia, Nudie Jeans, and Reformation have also all committed to paying living wages. (You can check the Remake Brand Directory for more information on specific brands.) These brands set a good example of how the fashion industry could, and should, operate as a whole, which is exactly what Remake and NGOs like AWAJ and Stand Up Movement Lanka are fighting for.
Governments also have a huge role to play in holding companies accountable and ensuring garment worker survival via monetary support. If passed, The Fabric Act would sign labor conditions, anti-wage theft, and anti-piecework pay into American law and set a monumental precedent, one with the potential to spark a domino effect that will lead governments around the world to protect the rights of clothing laborers in the garment industry. You can read more about the bill here.
About Katrina Caspelich
Katrina is the Director of Marketing & Partnerships at Remake. She is an experienced marketing strategist who strives to build the Remake brand using storytelling, creative thinking, and integrated marketing.
With over 12 years of experience working within the fashion industry, Katrina has worked as a talent agent, fashion editor, content creator, and marketing manager. These roles not only expanded her knowledge of fashion but they introduced her to many creative people within the industry.